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Whenever assembling a ranking of London’s finest dining spots, one might foresee familiar Michelin-starred names. But, situated prominently among these gastronomic heavyweights is a modest salonu situated in a outlying area of north London.

An Surprise Recognition

The little Turkish restaurant, specialising in the culinary delights of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been crowned the 4th finest restaurant in the city by a respected food magazine. The accolade has made the proprietors completely astonished.

“I am totally astonished,” states a owner’s son, alluding to his family’s relentless work that resulted in their humble shop achieving such a prominent ranking on a notable 99-strong list.

A Character of Modesty

The little venue, which used to be a basic cafe before its transformation into a sought-after food hotspot, has maintained much of its former feel. It fits just over 20 people and, aside from the dazzling live cooking show, the layout remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate place,” notes the owner.

A Namesake Creation: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s focused on the fare, and this restaurant definitely delivers. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a simple delight. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to keep a tender texture.

The meat is then added into a sizeable pan with seasonings and oil, which are mixed in gradually. When the meaty mixture starts to simmer, handmade lavaş—a pliable bread—is placed on top to absorb all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley are added before the flavourful meat is rolled neatly inside.

The wrap is typically enjoyed with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a strong burst of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and red, paprika-infused oil bringing it all together.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The leading food critic labelled this dish “one of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe is a delight. It is coated in less syrup than is typical, imparting it a deeper, toastier and more balanced flavour.

Surpassing the Stars

Interestingly, this unassuming spot has outplaced several renowned three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself near the top of the list, just after other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave this place satisfied for below £25, equivalent experiences at top-tier establishments can run into significantly more than that price.

The Philosophy of Heart

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants listed and is situated well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and best food but I do not believe in that,” says the owner.

“In my view what is most important is warmth, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This philosophy is echoed by the list’s curator, who stated that if he was in a role of authority, he would “insist to have every chef in London visit this restaurant as a finishing school, to show them the pitfalls of overcomplication, and to reveal what is attainable if you do a few – or three – things to their very best”.

The Path of Dedication

Unlike most chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food did not apprentice at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I feel very pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

Numerous restaurants need years to find their footing, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is due to tireless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum would be really tired. She would source produce in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. All of it is made by hand; she would handle all of this. She is a single mum and she managed a personal life but her friends would support her to support her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. All of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he says.

A Accomplishment for the Community

This restaurant’s recognition is bound to have meaning beyond its own doors. “I believe numerous people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” concludes the owner, emphasising the wider importance of this gastronomic achievement.